Question: Liked your helpful 2024 frost update on May 1 but didn’t Chablis also suffer vine damage from cold weather in early May 2004?
Answer: Yes very astute follow-up by you on our Ask Sid Wednesday feature. When I posted on May 1, Chablis had been suffering cold temperatures but had avoided serious frost damage. However, the next 24 hours brought historic late major hail storms that severely impacted the region. Check out the report of May 6, 2004 in Wine Spectator here. Another unlucky shorter 2024 crop is in the works for these increasingly popular most unique wines. Make sure you buy some remaining 2020 vintage and avoid even likely further price increases on subsequent years.
The new Gambero Rosso Italian Wine Guide 2024 is out listing 2647 producers and 25231 wines. Also, they awarded 498 wines their highest rating of “Tre Biccieri”, 56 “Tre Bicchieri Verdi” and 12 Special Awards. Accordingly, they are now on the annual road show around the world promoting this Guide and we were excited to receive them in Vancouver on May 3, 2024 for the Grand Tasting and MasterClass. Kudos to them and especially to Alex Martyniak, Director of Trade and Business Development, The Italian Chamber of Commerce in Canada – West for all his dedicated work in making Vancouver an important Tour stop. Previously the seminars have been less extensive but this time they pulled out all the stops and conducted an impressive wine tasting of all 12 Special Awards. Congrats and well done!
1. SPARKLER OF THE YEAR:
Franciacorta Millesimo Nature 2016 Enrico Gatti
Dry fresh elegant flowers with acidity balance from a better vintage.
2. WINERY OF THE YEAR:
Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Cl. Sup. V. V. Historical 2018 Umani Rochi
Wonderful variety old vines in full rich bodied style from this top consistent
Viticoltori in Marche E Abruzzo.
3. WHITE WINE OF THE YEAR:
Collio Chardonnay Ris. 2018 Primosic
Stylish lovely true variety is complex from great white wine-producing area in Collio by newer Primosic winery. Excellent.
4. COOPERATIVE WINERY OF THE YEAR:
A. A. Gewurztraminer Nussbaumer 2021 Cantina Tramin
Open spicy lychee well-defined aromas grown on south facing silty soils.
Smart farming methods resulting in solid red with typical light bitterness.
8. UP-AND-COMING WINERY:
Carmignano Arrendevoke Ris. 2020 Tenuta Ceri
North of Florence in the Montalbano hills by new Ceri producer shows lovely cherry fruit from 90% Sangiovese & 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
9. SOLIDARITY:
Rosso Piceno Sup. Roggio del Filare 2020 Velenosi
Montepulciano 70% & Sangiovese 30% from Marche has 18 months in barrique with 14.5 abv showing tobacco notes.
10. RED WINE OF THE YEAR:
Barolo Vigna Rionda Ester Canale Rosso 2019 Giovanni Rosso
Single Vineyard old vines Nebbiolo on red clay facing south east exposure from the celebrated 2019 new vintage.
Gambero Rosso tasters “Don’t look for concentration but finesse, elegance, and balance. This young Barolo is a wine of pure elegance that will develop for 20+ years.”
11. LADY GROWER OF THE YEAR:
Amarone della Valpolicella Val**zzane 2016 Camerani- Corte Sant’Alda
Clean smooth spicy mocha jam balanced not heavy at 15.5 abv with 4 years in oak barrels from grapes Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella 40/40/20 blend grown at 350 meters.
12. MEDITATION WINE OF THE YEAR:
Marsala VR 3911 Vergine Ris. 2011 Florio
100% Grillo from very sandy loam soil has ten years in single oak barrel fortified shows dry sherry-like malty salty unique nose and “crunchy marine notes”. Excellent aperitif or interesting pairing with blue cheese. Rediscover it.
Question: What is the latest news on possible increased use of a lighter weight wine bottle for sustainable purposes?
Answer: A most topical question you have raised as much attention continues to be given to this matter presently. Perhaps wineries are not the worst contributors to carbon/CO2 emissions in the total overall world picture but nonetheless helping the sustainable campaign plus making an important policy support statement should be made by the wine industry. Glass production at high temperatures does result in CO2 emissions and heavier glass causes even more. Also the transportation of wine in those glass bottles is becoming an ever bigger issue which is increased further by heavier weight. Lots is happening. See the Sustainable Wine Roundtable Report here. The latest news is the strong leadership position taken by high-profile Laura Catena as reported in The Drinks Business here.
Many vertical wine tastings have been reported here but fewer opportunities arise for a horizontal focus on just one vintage from several properties. A wonderful dinner event #121 by the Vancouver Group of Eight on April 30, 2024 at Blue Water Cafe did just that with eight Left Bank top classified Bordeaux Chateaux to compare from 1985 – now nearing 40 years of age. The 1985 Vintage started off with some of the coldest temperatures (-15C in January) since the infamous 1956 Bordeaux frosts with rainy cooler weather to follow until a hot July, cool but dry August and hot sunny dry September/October. Harvest at the end of September generally favoured mature ripe Merlot (and the Right Bank) but those that patiently waited till mid-October or so brought in better Cab Sauv & Cab Franc. The wines showed early charm and roundness with less weight (than the following 1986) with comparisons being made with 1959 & 1953.
This pleasurable evening commenced comparing two young outstanding 2012 LOUIS ROEDERER Champagnes – the CRISTAL Brut & CRISTAL Brut ROSE. Both were fresh with the Rose showing more vibrant explosive bubbles plus even more Pinot Noir weight & earlier flavour interest. The Cristal Brut shows a somewhat reluctant pure bouquet but has noble “dynamic effervescence” with power just needing some time to develop that renown delicate hazelnut creaminess. Liked the House description for the Rose as “the elegance of a Degas ballerina” which was shown aptly by both bubbles. Historic 1876 transparent lead crystal flat bottom bottles with gold wrapping come in impressive packaging but the contents are to be greatly admired too.
The eight Left Bank 1985 wines followed in two flights:
1985 CHÂTEAU SAINT-PIERRE: Underrated Domaines Henri Martin of Chateau Gloria is the first of 4 St. Juliens to compare in this flight. Lighter mature forward spice is charming in a more rustic way. Ready.
1985 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE BARTON: Darker with clean fruit (no property signature “iodine” here) is supple and silky mellow. First one solely made by Anthony Barton (after his uncle Ronald). Presently on a lovely plateau of enjoyment. No rush.
1985 CHÂTEAU GRUAUD LAROSE: Mid-colour paler edge. Less Cabernet Sauvignon here than the other St. Juliens but the crop seems stretched without the concentrated depth of their outstanding vintages in 1986 and 1982.
1985 CHÂTEAU DUCRU-BEAUCAILLOU: Textbook St. Julien with graphite, cedar, and black currant fruit. Makes a statement confirming the amazing balanced longevity of top Bordeaux even in the less powerful years. Perhaps it could have more complexity and length but is so delicious. Clear impressive winner of this first flight.
1985 CHATEAU LYNCH BAGES: Lighter weight than expected from this excellent Pauillac property plus this bottle has as touch of brett. More in an elegant softer minty style than the usual cigar box cedar. Have enjoyed better bottles of this 1985. OK
1985 CHÂTEAU LEOVILLE LAS CASES: A fifth St. Julien tasted that is darkest with by far the most impressive structured concentration of lead pencil fruit. So classy with harmonious charm. Will develop even further complexity and roundness. Wow! Wine of the night.
1985 CHATEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD: Quite a bit lighter than expected. Admire the balance of this herbal elegant charming First Growth Pauillac. Opened exquisitely with more subtle perfumes on the bouquet in the glass but needs more fruit intensity. Approachable now. Nothing similar to their outstandingly complex 1959 or 1953.
1985 CHATEAU MARGAUX: Clear brilliant look with no fine sediment from decanting. Seductive bouquet with bright elegant satiny blend (including Cab Franc & Petit Verdot) but seems to be missing the big Cab Sauv intensity fruit statement of 2005, 2009, and 2010. Their First Growth website states 1985 as “always been very pleasant to drink” and “first struck by the delicacy and charm of the particularly round and silky tannins”. Well summed up as “is one of our most appealing vintages and it seems to be at its peak”. Prefer the higher potential of the austere powerful 1986. Enjoy 1985 now and in the near future.
Finished up with the ready 1982 CHATEAU SUDUIRAUT which is rich sweet apricot & yuzu marmalade without botrytis but a beautiful late harvest Sauternes for using now with a tasty honey quince crepe or other dessert.
Question: Heard about the Okanagan BC cold snap in January 2024 (following the one in December 2022) that substantially damaged vineyards. What about frost this year in Europe?
Answer: Yes this is the time of year to worry about frost affecting grapevines. Recall those bad 2016 ones in Chablis. April 2024 has already seen threats in Bordeaux and elsewhere. Parts of Europe had a warmer winter which encouraged early grape bud shoots. Germany had a record very warm March followed by destructive frost last week of April 2024. Early reports of damage are quite extreme. Monitor the 2024 German crop volumes affecting even the usual hardy Riesling.
