A FAIR TO REMEMBER
Thursday, 31 March 2011
Alliance Française de Manille
by Cecile G. Mauricio
After last year’s record attendance, I had thought the 2nd IWFS Wine Fair would be moved to bigger premises. But it was held again at the Alliance Française de Manille, the French cultural center along the busy stretch of Nicanor Garcia Street on the fringes of Bel-Air. Never mind that the parking is tight and the getting there can be tedious because of the rush-hour traffic. The IWFS Wine Fair is not to be missed—and the Alliance Française is part of the attraction.
Alongside the language classes, the Wednesday night showing of movies (French, naturally), art exhibits and a well-stocked library, food is a major offering at the Alliance Française. Its restaurant, “Le Coude Rouge,” may just be one of the best eating places in Manila. The house pâté and rillettes, dutifully served with cornichons are classic mainstays here, together with the steak au poivre and hand-cut pommes frites. poulet rôti and ratatouille, and a truly remarkable tarte au citron. On special days, when their famed couscous makes an appearance, there are more people in the restaurant that is really the far end of a spacious multi-purpose hall. But reconfigure that space to fit not just the dining tables (and chairs), display areas for eight wine merchants, plus about 50 to a hundred people—and the equation changes. The area is not so much tight as intimate, activity not frenzied but bustling, with enough elbow room for milling around the wine tables. Add to that the savory smells wafting from the kitchen and the entire space is charged with the collective energy of people enjoying wine and food.
That was again the setting of the 2nd IWFS Wine Fair. Now on its 28th year, the International Wine and Food Society (IWFS) Philippines Branch holds events like these as much to foster appreciation for the pleasures of the table as to engage its members in the spirit of camaraderie. The now yearly wine fair gives allows Society members who are in the wine trade to present their products directly to their fellow members—and sell, usually with hefty discounts.
There were again 40 wines for sale—with the opportunity to taste them. But this year, there was no price ceiling for the five wines each wine merchant would be presenting, a cause for excitement for us imbibers. There were therefore choices from P365 to P13,500; from everyday wines to iconic wines. My game plan was to taste only one wine from each of the eight merchants—but just those in the top tier, like the Domaine du Colombier Hermitage 2007 or the Joseph Phelps Insignia 2005. After all, there was no way I was going to taste all 40 wines and make it through the night (and most of all, home) in one piece.
I started with white—the astounding Királyudvar Cuvée Ilona 2007, an ethereal, mind-blowing Tokaji, its sweetness tempered by a shimmering layer of citrus. Its purveyor, Jojo Madrid of Premium Wine Exchange, gave the look that said, “Didn’t I tell you so?” The wine left me tongue-tied.
From thereon, my plan went haywire. My quick hello to Bernard Sim, IWFS President (and former President of Alliance Française) ended up with me joining him at the dinner table for the entire evening. And dining with Mr. Sim means one is at the receiving end of his generosity. From the private stash that he keeps in a wine chiller at the Alliance, out came bottle after bottle of liquid pleasure—Grand Vin de Leoville du Marquis Lascases, a 1982 St-Julien, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, Le Poissenot 2003, Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis 2003, Clos Saint-Jacques Gevrey-Chambertin 2002. I took every glass (a half portion) as a wine lesson, complete with comments from Mr. Sim and the other gentlemen at the table. And just when I decided I had enough wine for the evening, Kathy Santos of Happy Living Fine Wine hands me a glass of a deeply dark red wine. How could I refuse the iconic Joseph Phelps Insignia 2005?
The outpouring of generosity—and wine—is singular to all IWFS events. Perhaps more so in the Wine Fair, where I‘ve noticed there is more sharing than selling, and the pleasure is as much in the eating and drinking, as in the interacting with people who are into wine and food as well.
The 3rd IWFS Wine Fair is not to be missed.