Highlander Steakhouse
by Rene R. Fuentes
The first function of the year was at the Highlander Steakhouse in a members-only enclave of Tagaytay Highlands, about an hour and half drive (traffic cooperating) south of Manila. Per our Branch records, we had a similar function at this venue sponsored by member Jaime Gonzalez in May 1998. Now, Branch President Bernie Sim was the sponsoring member.
We seldom talk about the weather in this country but at this time of the year, it was indeed nice and balmy; no threat of rain (Tagaytay always promises to be cooler than Manila.) As we entered the Steakhouse, the wind was howling. The lunch was to take place on the terrace but very fortunately, the leeward side of the restaurant was calm and gentle and very comfortable; a portent of things to come. No danger of banners or anybody being blown off the terrace.
The wines--all Philippines Branch supplied from its own cellars except for two kinds purchased for the occasion-- were brought over properly iced and cold -- the bubbly and the whites-- transported in an “eskie” as the Aussies would say. The advance party of Bill Stone, Ramon Diokno, and Rene Fuentes were met by the able staff of the Steakhouse. The wine steward had a reassuring sense of confidence--he was trained at the Fairmont in Dubai, after all. As this was an out of town trip, we had our fingers crossed, hoping that our friend Mr. Murphy will stay away. And he did just that.
Glassware was examined to be sure that Marie Antoinette's breast was nowhere to be seen. Proper flutes, the right size for the white and red wines, were available. The sweet wine glass was on small side but it will have to do. We advised the steward to upgrade the restaurant's wine glasses, not necessarily to Reidel standards but similarly shaped. And this time, there were place settings for 17 participants (14 members and 3 guests) who were soon to make their presence known and felt. Members have been known to grumble about the mad scramble for seats when dinner is announced. The port and the Araujo Cabernet Sauvignon were properly decanted--our winemaster gave strict instructions that the Quinta do Bonfim must be decanted at least 2 hours before serving. Any young reds would benefit from this practice too.
And then the parade of wines. First came the Charles de Fere Sparkling Burgundy NV, made the traditional way from chardonnay and by an important maker. The Branch has served this in one or two functions; so, it is a familiar friend. The quality price ratio (QPR) of this sparkler is unbeatable especially when a champagne would be an overkill. It is not particularly distinctive; pale yellow color, creamy and toasty notes, good mouthfeel, soft and fruity on the palate and good finish. A very good thirst quencher this! The escargot in the Burgundy style paired well with the sparkling wine and so did the Chateau Bonnet 2008 Entre Deux Mer Blanc. Another discovery that will not break the bank; its QPR is just right. A semillon-sauvignon blanc blend in a stelvin cap closure, it was quite pale with gooseberry (Mike Guerrero's observation) and lime notes; a spritzy mouth feel. Good acid balance and fresh; a simple wine with medium aftertaste and no pretensions. Others commented on its grassy lemony notes as well as hints of green apples and pears. The Boston clam chowder also went with the Ch. Bonnet as well as the Leeuwin Art Series Chard--more on this wine in a bit.
With the greenhouse bistro salad with vinaigrette dressing, there was a lull in wine flow.
The diners were given a choice from 7 main courses-- sea bass, prime rib, baby back ribs, US rib-eye, roast rack of lamb, filet mignon, or New York strip-loin served with baked potato or rice pilaf, corn on the cob, and vegetables. No worries, we had the wines to pair with any course: the 2006 Leeuwin Estates Art Series Chardonnay Margaret River, 2002 Ch. Potensac Haut Medoc, 2002 Ch. Ormes de Pez St.-Estephe, and the 2001 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa. But all opted to have all the wines, matching or not. So was this a wine-tasting or a wine-quaffing event or what?
The Leeuwin Art Series is considered one of Australia's best chardonnays and comes from a highly rated vintage. Spicy, oaky, nutty (roasted almonds?) layers of butter, vanilla and peach. A monster of a wine, brassy and Aussie! Massive palate with a very long dry finish; intense and alcoholic. Closed with a screwcap. The most expensive wine in the line up.
The Ch. Potensac 2003, dark plum purple color, on the nose sweet mincemeat, black currants, an elegant, fleshy, and forward claret. In my opinion, the Potensac was somehow overshadowed by the Ormes de Pez 2002. It was deeply colored with slight herbal notes, red currants and spice box with earthy tones, medium bodied and somewhat tart. As it developed in the glass, it exhibited berries and tobacco. A very pleasant wine indeed!
To reward those who trekked to Tagaytay, a bonus wine was uncorked: the Araujo 2001 - a donation by a generous member: Joe Ledesma. The Branch had a vertical tasting of this cult California red some months ago. Because there was a surfeit of Araujos then, we decided to keep this vintage for another time and this event was a better time than any. Similar to its older brothers, dark red in hue, showed coffee, tobacco, leather, blackberry and cassis notes-- some chocolate and earth --practically all the descriptors for a cabernet sauvignon. It had great length and a great velvety mouthfeel.
After all that, we had 4 choices for dessert--fresh fruit in season (for those who felt pangs of guilt), chocolate silk, blueberry cheesecake, and warm chocolate cake topped with vanilla bean ice cream and walnut chocolate cookie bar. Since most of us were already wallowing in gluttony, the choice was obvious. The Dow's Quinta do Bonfim 1996 Vintage Port was supposed to be fitting capstone with dessert and coffee. When Dow does not declare a vintage year such as 1996, its single quintas do. Inky dark, smooth and deeply flavored with intense nose of spices, violets, and red fruits; balanced tannins, firm structure and long finish. Others noted raisins, prunes, blackberries, and earth. A very full bodied wine; elegant and silky.
We did not stop at the port. Member Dieter Lonishen (our resident single malt expert) gallantly pulled out a single malt Scotch--was it a Glenrothers Speyside-- and offered everybody not a wee dram--more of doubles and triples for the intrepid. Some members smoked Monte Cristo, Davidoff, and Macanudo, to name just a few cigars.
At this point, we felt no pain. But the trek back to the city beckoned. We made our "thank you's" accompanied by a round of well-deserved applause to the kitchen and wait staff as well as the restaurant management who were glad to see us off. It was late in the afternoon when we parted, congratulating each other for another memorable event. From grape to grain, the event was a veritable geography lesson, too--Burgundy, Bordeaux (Entre Deux Mers, Haut Medoc, and St.-Estephe), Margaret River Western Australia, Napa California, Oporto, and Scotland!
Please see the invitation and menu for more details.