2014 AGM
You will have heard, no doubt, of "a game of two halves" or "the curate's egg". Well, the Manchester Branch A.G.M. dinner had echoes of both of these. On arrival and before the business of the evening members enjoyed Graham Beck Brut Rosé N.V., a sparkling wine made by the champagne method in the South African "Winelands". The wine is 51% chardonnay and 49% pinot noir. It displayed tiny bubbles (a very good feature in a sparkling wine) and showed vivacity with notes of strawberry and cherry. It was accompanied by an excellent selection of canapés. Then to the meeting and thereafter into dinner. I ought to have mentioned that the venue was The Portland Hotel by Thistle™, Manchester.
Our first course was a dish of seared scallops with a cauliflower purée decorated with micro-cress. The plate looked beautiful on arrival. The scallops were perfectly cooked and the cauliflower purée added to the enjoyment of the dish.
The accompanying wine was 2011 Bourgogne Blanc A.C., Cuvée Spéciale, from Maison Roche de Bellene. This chardonnay wine is made especially for The Wine Society by the renowned Nicolas Potel. As ever when dining out, the white wine was served too cold. Those who started on it straight away found little to interest them but those who were patient found rich flavours enhanced by the barrel fermentation and it went well with dish. It even stood up to the next course (with which it was also served) namely a demi-tasse of carrot and coriander velouté with a drizzle of ginger crème fraîche. This dish also delivered excellent flavours and was well-received.
We moved to more controversial territory with the main course. This was a (whole) roast poussin with a truffle and wild mushroom sauce served with noisette potatoes, sprouting broccoli and baby carrots. The dish was perfectly cooked and very tasty but seemed out of the context of earlier courses which demonstrated a more refined cuisine - this dish was, in contrast, in the robust style of a bistro dish. There were mixed views expressed. Some diners found the need to wrestle with the carcass a step too far whilst others really enjoyed the good flavour of the bird along with the richness of the sauce. There can be criticism of the kitchen; perhaps, not the ideal menu choice - a chicken breast with the same saucing might have worked better. Solace was found, where needed, in the 2011 Catherine Marshall Pinot Noir, Elgin (South Africa). Platter's note on the vintage reveals that it was a favourite for the eponymous owner and I agreed that it showed the fragrance, fruit purity and freshness - some bottle variation, however, was reported.
Dessert was a vanilla pannacotta with a "classic" Melba sauce and some berries. The first component avoided the risk of over-gelatinisation but held its shape well and was well flavoured. The colours and flavours of the sauce and berries made for a good dish. It has become customary for a dessert wine to be offered and that tradition was maintained in the form of 2011 Tabali Late Harvest Pink Muscat from the Limari Valley in northern Chile. As the name suggests this is a pink grape which makes a white dessert wine. Made from about 40% botrytised fruit, this had wonderfully grapey, musky aromas, and a sweet palate underpinned by good freshness. It was widely enjoyed. Coffee and petits fours rounded of a very enjoyable evening and a great way to start 2014.